Saturday, 7 June 2008

Assisi Diary Post 3: 02/06/2008, Amettes

Assisi Post 3 - 02/06/2008, Amettes, 2094 kms left

As I had said in the previous post Fred and I met up with Vanda at Canterbury on 26th so on 27th May the three intrepid explorers set off to walk to Rome (and Assisi).

Weather was pleasant and armed with a short cut from our CPR friend Joe, we hoped to reach Calais on the same day. I had arranged to receive a Blessing at Canterbury Cathedral which again was a very special event, and after that we set off. We were accompanied initially by Vanda's husband Paul but all too soon he had to turn back and we waved him goodbye.

We arrived on the outskirts of Dover in good spirits but did not realise how far we still had to travel. Then it started raining! In the end we did not reach the port until about 18:30. We were in time for the last ferry but we would not have reached Calais until around 22:00. Dripping all over the terminal we reluctantly decided that it was too late to do the crossing today and we needed to find somewhere to stay in Dover. In the end we found a pretty cheap hotel not far from the port and with a very convenient Indian take-away. We dined sumptuously on that and Cotes de Rhone!

It was with great excitement that we boarded the ferry and at long last we were off to France! We would not arrive until after midday so had planned a short walk that day and duly arrived in Wissant around 17:00.

Our view of Calais as we disembark

We had phoned ahead and booked the hotel Bellevue. They provided us with a 'family suite' consisting of bathroom, a double-bedded room and another room with 2 single beds. The rooms were very light and airy. The restaurant also was lovely and sunny and bright with windows on all sides. After an exceedingly good meal washed down with lovely cold Rose wine, we went for a stroll into the village and to the seafront.

It was sunset and the sky had wispy clouds coloured by the dying sun. The tide was out and had left little pools of water which now contained reflections of the pink fading sun. And there we could see across the water, the lights of England. Fred had already made reference to something he had read where the author gazed out over the Channel and could see England across the water. Now Fred was experiencing something similar and realised that he also was now in another country and the reality of that on which he had also embarked.

Sunset over the Channel

I suspect this was similar to that which I had experienced in 2003 when I left Plymouth on the 2nd stage of my pilgrimage to Santiago. I sat on the ferry taking me to Roscoff. I had never done anything like this before. Here I was, setting off into a foreign country, never really having walked anywhere before. I felt as though I was jumping off a cliff with my eyes blindfolded, not knowing whether the drop was a few inches, in which case I would probably survive, or whether it was several hundred feet, in which case I might not!

Anyway, Fred and Vanda gazed at the sea, & I decided it would be folly not to have a paddle so off I went. It was somehow satisfying to feel the waves washing over my feet so I took a photo! I seem to be developing a penchant for taking photos of my feet! I have one of my foot on the shell in Obradoiro Square which marks the ' zero' point of the pilgrimage to Santiago, and another of my feet dangling in the Mediterranean sea when I walked down the Italian Riviera from Genoa to Menton recently.

Feet washed by the Channel

So how has it been walking?

We have now walked just over 258 kms. As I said the trip to Dover was not too bad until the latter part when it started to rain. The following day to Wissant was pleasant, sunny but not too hot. Although we stayed more or less together though it was becoming clear that Fred and Vanda both walked at a faster pace than I.

We spent our second night in a Chambre d'Hote at Guines. Again the accommodation was very comfortable and the proprietors even invited us to accompany them to the supermarket so we could get something for our evening meal. We also had had an excellent omelette lunch in the Bar opposite.

The following day we arrived at a charming Chambre d'Hote at Alembon with beautiful, original décor, done by Martine, the proprietress. See picture below.

Fabulous original decor at Guines

The next day was hot and I had coloured up well (though not actually sunburnt!) by the time we arrived at Wisques where we stayed with the very hospitable Benedictine Sisters and I was able to attend Mass the following day (Sunday). After staying at Enquinegatte we had our first seriously rainy day. It started in the morning and continued for some hours. It then stopped and we had just about dried off when it started again. At long last we found an open bar/tabac and I had a most welcome beer! Unfortunately though we were dripping somewhat. Arriving at Amettes we were just in time before our 'lady of the house' went out to work. Again the accommodation was very pretty and more importantly, we had plenty of heaters with which to warm up and dry our clothes.

I hope there are not too many more days like that in store!

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