Walking from London to Assisi

Assisi Diary Post 15: Assisi

2008-09-23T01:46:00.000-07:00

Assisi Diary Post 15: Assisi 0 kms left!

Last time I did a post I was in Foligno with only a very short distance to go. While there I had the opportunity to be shown round the Convent in which I was staying and which had some amazing and very old (some dating from 13thC) wall frescos. This was after I had written the posting and I wanted to share a photo with you. The depth and perspective of some of them was amazing and the photo I am including does not really do it justice.

Next day, 13th I set off from Foligno rather undecided as to where to make for and what route to take. If I stayed on the road along the valley I could probably easily make Assisi that day. On the other hand, Yvonne was coming in to meet me and it would be so nice to walk in to Assisi and have a welcoming committee (albeit of one!). I could take the high route from Spello to Assisi I had found in a walkers guide in Foligno (this was the last piece of the jigsaw I wrote about in the last diary item) but it entailed an ascent of up to 1200 metres but it took you into Assisi by the Sanctuary of Eremo Delle Carceri where St Francis used to go on retreat. I very much wanted to arrive at Assisi via the Eremo. If I did plump for the high route should I try to do it all today and stay at the camp-site near the Eremo, thus making it quite a long demanding day, or should I stay in Spello tonight (only 4 kms from Foligno) but then have quite a long day tomorrow?

All this was going thru my head as I left Foligno. In addition, to add another dimension to the situation, there had been the mother and father of a storm last night and it looked from the sky that there may be still more rain to come!

I arrived at Spello having followed the main road along the valley floor, the road I had actually wanted to take was subject to roadworks and the signs said it was now a dead end. Like many of the other towns I have seen Spello was perched on a hillside

There I visited the Basilica but also another lovely Church (the name of which annoyingly escapes me) which had beautiful music playing, unusual for Churches in Italy in my experience, and had a truly wonderful fresco capturing such love and tenderness I was really moved and stood in front of it for some time. Cannot remember the artist or date or anything. It was a scene where Joseph is embracing Mary after she has told him of the Annunciation.

Anyway went to the Tourist Office to see if I could get more information about local paths and just as I did so the heavens opened. As always the girl there was very friendly and helpful and gave me a really useful book showing all the paths in the Mount Subasio park which was possibly my route. I asked her about the weather. She checked the internet and said it would clear and be OK this afternoon but would be raining tomorrow morning. That settled it. With the walk info I could see another route which would take to the Eremo but much lower down (I might add here you are still talking about going up to 800+ metres in altitude). If it was going to be fine this afternoon I could do it. If it was going top rain again tomorrow morning I did not want to heading off to the Eremo. So I decided to have a long stop here and then resume after the weather cleared.

Naturally I took the wrong route out of Spello, lost the height I had gained by going up into the town and found myself again on the valley floor road that would lead to Assisi!

At that point I had a chat with God. I said ¨Look God, my feet are in your hands. I can error-correct this mistake but I don't know whether I will recognise the turnings when I come to them. I don't know whether I will find the pedestrian path to the Eremo. I don't know whether I will camp wild in the mountains, make the Fontemaggio camp-site or end up in Assisi looking for the pilgrim Refugio. I will be guided by wherever you send my feet.¨

Got to the turning that I though would correct my mistake and sure enough found myself on the correct road. Then arrived at the next place I should turn off but again I was not sure. It was not signposted to the village I hoped it would, it was just a street name. I took it anyway. There were another few junctions that I just navigated using 'gut feel' (or divine inspiration). Eventually I came to a T junction where I thought I knew where I was, though the road had not behaved as it looked on the map so I could have easily been somewhere else. The weather was worsening. I could go left downhill and arrive probably at Assisi. I could go right and continue climbing, not necessarily on the right road. Even if I was on the right road I might not find the sentier to the Eremo. I know this 'cause it has all happened to me in the past!

I went right.

I could hear a voice telling me that any sensible person would not be heading up a mountain into the clouds looking for a path that might turn out to be as hair-raising as the one I took to Monteluco. Up and up the road I went. I could see the valley below with the houses getting smaller and smaller. Soon I was getting into cloud level - see pics below

I kept looking at the map to try and judge where the sentier should be and realized there was a point on the road I should recognise and if I did not find the path after that would have to retrace my steps. There had by then been a few cart tracks leading off in the right direction though none had been signed.

Then I saw it! And not only did it have red and white GR type signage but it also had the familiar Via Francescana waymark. I was so relieved. And it was a wide dirt track not a narrow footpath - see below

There was still a fair bit of 'up' to do and it was now raining. But the path remained reasonably easy to negotiate. At one point with the bad weather I did contemplate camping wild, and did find a suitable flat spot, but I was still not tired and did not fancy the idea of carrying a wet tent the next day. It did not look as though the sun would return to dry things out. So I pushed on. Eventually I arrived at the entrance to the Sanctuary but although the Franciscan Community were there, the actual Sanctuary was closed for renovation. The Church was not open for visiting but the Friar who gave me a stamp for my pilgrim's credential said it was OK to go in and pray which I did so, for my safe arrival.

I then walked down to the camp-site

which also was a Youth Hostel and decided to have an indoors bed rather than camp. I settled down knowing I had only about 1 km to walk the following day.

The next morning was bright and sunny, without the threatened rain and I set off in good spirits though ironically not knowing where precisely my pilgrimage would end. This was because with Yvonne arriving later that I would, I might walk down to the train station to meet her, in which case my pilgrimage would end at Santa Maria Degli Angeli.

Then suddenly I came round the corner and came upon the entrance to Assisi - Porta Cappuccini

I carried on down through Assisi and arrived at the Basilica of St Francis. There are two Churches here, one on top of the other. As I reached the entrance to the uppermost Church, I saw that Mass was about to start in the lower. I went there immediately and attended Mass. It was a very special time. Afterwards I requested a Mass be said at the basilica for all those who had prayed for me and wished me well. The Priest who dealt with the requests also blessed a small prayer card and again this was a very special moment for me. I share it with you with the picture of the card below. The image is part of a fresco in the lower Basilica and ironically I sat just under this image at the Mass.

I then asked the Priest about a pilgrim stamp, he told me where to get it, I got the stamp and stood outside the Basilica (see pic below) and realised that this was the end of my very long journey.

I went for breakfast - it was now midday and by the time had finished, realised it was too late to get down to the train station so arranged to meet Yvonne in the main square. I had booked us into a hotel for the next nigh onwards but we decided to see if we could stay from today and joy of joys we could. We were taken up to our room and what a view! We had a balcony with a fantastic view out over the valley below Assisi. I thoroughly recommend this hotel, it's called the Hotel Posta Panoramic and is very central, on Via San Paolo just a few minutes away from the main square and Tourist Office and handy for all the Basilicas. The staff are friendly, helpful and very accommodating. They even got in a bottle of champagne specially for me when I explained I wanted to celebrate. Alas the weather changed and we had several slightly chilly days with rain and I did not get a decent picture of our view but see below, it gives an idea

So what next? It will be a while before I am in England as I have a few other things I am doing beforehand. But as far as walking is concerned, I had always intended continuing from Assisi to LaVerna next year. But I missed quite a few places I had intended to visit this time because of the vagaries of my route planning. So I will probably walk again from Rome to Assisi and then on to LaVerna and Florence. But this time I will make sure I have all my maps and guides before I set off! There is a waymarked route to/from Rome which I actually stumbled across early on and I would like to try and follow it and perhaps write a guide to it.

As with my last pilgrimage, there were a number of people I met along the way for whom I had no contact details. I prayed for them at the Basilica of St Claire and they are listed below:

* A lad I met on 09/06/2008 at the Basilica of St Quintin. He was honouring the first anniversary of his father's death. I prayed for him and his father.
* A lady I met on 11/06/2008 at the Basilica in Laon. I prayed for her and her nephew, Francis.
* A lad I met on 15/07/2008 who served me in a food shop in Iverea and insisted on giving me some bottles of juice.
* A couple I met on 16/07/2008 on the way out of Iverea
* Emmanuel who I met sometime after 21/07/2008 who, when I told him I hoped to arrive in Assisi on 14th September, told me he was getting married that day at 17:00.
* A Parish Group from Lodi I met on 23/07/2008 at Santa Andrea where you take the boat across the Po. They were great fun and very kind. The Parish Priest could speak French and helped to arrange for the boat to come and collect me.
* A woman I met on 20/08/2008 on the way in to Viterbo
* A woman I met on 01/09/2008 on the way in to Bocchignano
* Andrea who I met on 05/09/2008 in Contigliano. He turned out to be another Guardian Angel
* A woman I met on 09/09/2008 in Cese. She was very kind to me, giving me a cup of coffee and some cake. There was no bar or cafe in the town. She missed her son who had died at the age of 29. I prayed for them both.

Assisi Diary Post 14: 12/09/2008, Foligno

2008-09-12T06:55:00.000-07:00

Assisi Diary Post 14: 12/09/2008, Foligno about 25 kms left

To start with I completely forgot to tell you about my last meal in Rome, so what would an Irish Pilgrim eat on their last night in Rome? Why Irish Stew of course, washed down with Guinness!

So I travelled to Rieti by bus and it was absolutely hair-raising! The road snaked up and up into the mountains and had blind bends on one side and sheer drops on the other. Sitting up high on a bus I could see over the low wall to the drop below. It reminded me of the day in 2006 when I walked to Menton, high up above Monaco with exactly the same sort of terrain, except the drop was to the sea as opposed to wooded valleys below. There were only 2 things on my mind - a) I would have to repeat this journey to get back to Poggio and b) how on earth was I going to be able to walk to Assisi if I had to walk along a road like this? (The reason for this intrepidation is my fear of heights.)

I spent 2 nights in Rieti and did get very useful info from the Tourist Office there although detail coverage was only for the Rieti Valley. The town itself like many of the Italian towns I have visited has a lovely old historic centre. The buildings often fused with the rock below - see pic

I did not realise it at the time but the information from Rieti was just another piece of the jigsaw that has been this section of my pilgrimage. I know I am travelling north from Rome but I have nearly lost count of the number of times I have changed my itinerary! Do you know the story about an American tourist who is lost in the country lanes of Ireland. He sees a farmer and asks for directions. Back comes the reply ¨Well I wouldn't start from here if I was you.¨

I seem to keep finding myself at exactly the same place i.e. the wrong startpoint!

I returned to Poggio Mirteto and started on my replanned route. This took me up high over the mountains - probably nearly 1000 metres. On the way up there was a layer of something covering part of the valley below. I am not sure it was cloud - I have found as I think I have said before that visibility is often not very good and I suspect pollution rather than cloud is the culprit. Anyway it gave an interesting effect - see pic

It was pretty hard work going up but the views at the top were great

After camping wild that night I set off for Fonte Colombo, a Franciscan Shrine, and when I reached the point at which I should have gone effectively right, and by the way found the waymarks for the St Francis Way, see pic below

but I went left instead towards Greccio, another Shrine. I can only believe I was being guided as I then subsequently met an Italian pilgrim who could speak very good English and who turned out to be another Guardian Angel in disguise. So I replanned again. And again my itinerary changed when I found the route from Greccio to Stroncone (part of my original itinerary that I couldn't find on the map) was signposted from the Greccio Sanctuary. This was another hard climb to nearly 1000 metres but was followed by a lovely walk along a plateau for several kms before descending to Stroncone.

More info from the Tourist Office in Terni gave me another piece of the jigsaw and off I went to Ferentillo. Having gone up and over the heights the previous day, and that morning it was a relief to walk along the valley floor - see below

The following day I put my faith and trust in God and did something I previously said I would not. I headed off into the mountains to try and find a path that was not marked on my map. The first part of the day again was a climb with great views but on a little used road. Then I found the path and more St Francis waymarks - see below

This was a pedestrian 'sentier', very pleasant in places going along the side of the mountain with shelter-giving trees on each side. But every now and then the trees on the valley side would disappear providing magnificent views across to the mountains on the other side, and down into the valley below - see pic

The problem is, as I have already explained, I am very uncomfortable with heights. On a narrow footpath this rises to real fear! I kept having to tell myself to look down at my feet and the path, not up at the lovely view. The picture above I took at a point where the path was wider and I leaned against the rock to steady myself. The bit of stone in the foreground is the edge of the path. At last I reached the top at 950 metres and the descent started. The sentier eventually came out on a road which it crosses and continues descending. I was so relieved I nearly got down on my knees and kissed it (the road I mean)! As it was going to the same place, needless to say I stuck to the road.

From the sublime to the ridiculous, the next day, armed with another piece of jigsaw I was on a nice, flat, safe cycle track.

The only minus point was that I had intended camping wild but there was no suitable place, it was all very open ground. I carried on walking until dark and eventually found a narrow stretch beside the track that could not be seen from the road running parallel. There wasn't room for the tent so I just bedded down there in the sleeping bag. Fortunately it did not rain!

Church of St Francis at Foligno

Now in Foligno I have the final piece, the itinerary from Spello to Assisi, though not from here to Spello so I will just take a minor road to Spello which is only a few kms away. I expect to reach Assisi on Sunday 14/09/2008.

It seems strange to think my journey is almost finished. I am getting a little tired and must confess that I am looking forward to not having to carry the rucksack day after day!

So hopefully the next posting should be after I reach Assisi.

Take care all

Assisi Diary Post 13: 01/09/2008, Poggio Mirteto

2008-09-02T00:57:00.000-07:00

Assisi Post 13, 01/09/2008, Poggio Mirteto 209 kms left (in theory - see below!)

This posting has 2 headlines.

Headline 1: Isn't it amazing how God brings us together?
Joe and I continued our way to Rome, discovering en route another section of old Roman road. We had decided to take an alternative route from Campagnano to La Storta which was outlined on the Psoni maps but was not way marked. Somehow we did not end up on the correct path crossing the Cassia but found ourselves on an old basalt Roman road.

We were very exited and thought ourselves real trailblazers! However this was short-lived as we discovered we were in a field with a high fence, high gate to match and no way out! The next thing a man appeared, I though to tell us off for trespassing, but no, he had a wire clippers and undid some of the fencing at the edge to let us out. He then offered us a coffee - it turned out he owned the nearby bar. We were certainly ready for a coffee and break.

We reached La Storta, the last stop before Rome without further mishap and after showering and dinner etc. discovered a Guinness pub just across the road from where we were staying. It seemed most appropriate!

Our walk into Rome the following day, Monday 25th August was amazing as we were accompanied by Alberto Alberti, a good friend of Joe's (and by the way who gave me a brilliant guided tour of Rome in 2006) and who has written a guide to the Via F between Siena and Rome. He brought us in through fields and trees and even in the centre of Rome we picked blackberries and figs and saw wildlife and farm animals - see pictures below

And finally we arrived in St Peter's Square

This was the end of the journey for Joe but just a short rest period for me.

After giving thanks for our safe arrival and discovering that I could not get my Testimonium in the afternoon, we went for a celebratory beer. Leaving Joe to look after the rucksacks, I went to the post office to collect the parcel of maps etc sent to me (thanks Jill) and just as I came out of the PO who did I meet but the group of Italians I wrote about in the last diary - though minus Matteo as he had had to return to work.

We couldn't believe it and squealed in delight and hugged each other. I had meant to contact them to say when we would arrive but thought they had already left. They came along to meet Joe and we arranged to meet the following evening.

Joe and I went to our accommodation, ate and to my dismay my body went into shut-down mode and I had to go to bed - it was only 21:45. I think it must have been because I had walked non-stop since 3rd August and the emotional release of arriving in Rome.

Next evening we meet Cecilia, Sara etc as planned and at long last I got the chance to wear my posh frock I had bought some time ago and which was in the parcel with maps etc. We had a great evening, Joe managed to find again the restaurant in which he and a friend had had an excellent meal a few years ago after walking the Via F from Lausanne. I was very touched when Cecilia gave me a candle to take with me and light at Assisi.

The next day was spent sorting out maps etc for the next leg of my journey as well as getting my Testimonium. Afterwards we went to Mass in the Vatican which appropriately was celebrated by Don Bruno who has just minutes before presented my with the Testimonium. I was leaving the Chapel after Mass and I saw someone I thought I recognised. I said to myself ´It can't be, can it?´ Then I saw who was standing beside him and I thought ´It is, it is´, and right enough it was!

It was Tom and Anne, set dance teachers from London, whom I have known for several years. Tom knew I was walking to Rome and Assisi but never dreamed he would meet me. They were not even staying in Rome but in La Verna and had only come to Rome for the day. And had come to visit St Peters and had been just in time to hear the bell for Mass. Tom said that when he went up to Communion he saw me and was thinking ´That's Ann, I'm sure that's Ann!´ So that was an even more amazing meeting, though given the surroundings we were not jumping up and down and squealing! Alas we were unable to do more than exchange greetings and hugs as Joe and I were already meeting Don Bruno again as well as Alberto. So Tom promised to give my love to the class and we parted. I am still amazed by that meeting, St Peters is so big it would have been so easy not to have met!

In no time at all it was Thursday and Joe departed for London. I had a solitary breakfast and later that day sat at lunchtime with a large bottle of Peroni but only one glass. Then Friday dawned and it was time for me to start the final part of my pilgrimage.

Headline 2: Walking in Italy is not the same as walking in France
(or the best laid plans of mice, men and pilgrims do not always go as expected!)

I had decided to formally start the next stage from the St Francis Church of the Stigmata, attending Mass there and perhaps getting a stamp. So I set off from St Peter's Square and walked to St Francis only to discover the Church was closed for renovations and Mass was not being celebrated there until September.

Off I went feeling a little disappointed but in reasonable spirits. I wondered what this next stage would bring. It took a long time to get out of Rome but at last I passed the 'you are leaving Rome' sign and ahead lay hills/mountains. I have to say I did not relish the idea of going up them!

I reached the turning for Guidonia, my destination for the day and great, there was a cafe. I stopped for a very good (and cheap) meal and discovered my map was gone. It had dropped out of my bag. Well at least I knew where I was going that day and I thought the town would be big enough that I should get another. It also looked big enough to have a hotel - I had no idea where I would sleep that night, but still had the tent so if the worse came to the worse, could camp wild.

Did manage to get a replacement map and have now been walking for 3 days. I did have to climb a bit on day 2 but it was hardly noticeable, the views were great

and the route took me along a lovely flat road running along the hillside. I also enjoyed lots of figs!

However I have run into a major obstacle - route finding. When I devised my itinerary I based it on a couple of guidebooks which I had borrowed. I had no time in England to buy these or indeed the appropriate maps. I assumed I would find the necessary material in Rome. Not so! The largest scale map I can find is 1 cm to 1.5 kms. I could not find either of the guidebooks. What I have now discovered is that there are several instances of 'as the crow flies' sections in my itinerary, and alas I am not a crow!

To explain take for example Day 6, Calvi del Umbria to Stroncone, 20 kms. The itinerary goes Calvi, Vasciano, Aguizzo, Coppa & Stroncone. The distance between Calvi and Vasciano looks to be about 10 kms but there is no direct road linking the two, there is just mountains. No doubt there is a track or path but its not marked. To go by road is about 27 kms. Similarly there is no direct road between Vasciano and Aguizzo. In fact the road stops dead at Aguizzo! There is no direct route either between Calvi and Stroncone so I can't just march down the main road to get there.

I decided to get to Poggio Mirteto as I could do so reasonably easily and it is a large town, and try and get more detailed information. But no, the tourist office is shut on Mondays and does not open until 14:00 tomorrow. Also the well stocked looking bookshop has no larger scale maps than I have already. Therein lies the headline. When I did a similar pilgrimage in France in 2003, heading off with just an itinerary of towns and no idea what I would find in terms of accommodation or route, maps of scale 1 cm to 1 km and 1 cm to 0.25 km of that region were easily available in tabac shops. Sometimes the little shops would have maps of neighbouring regions, but these could normally be found in larger towns as well so route finding was not a problem. In addition I found Tourist Offices in France readily available (and open) sometimes even in quite small towns and they were very helpful in finding accommodation. They often had free large scale maps of the town/local area showing local footpaths thus allowing me to plot more off-road options than I could have otherwise. I did not realise at the time how fortunate I was, never having walked anywhere before!

I know there are marked routes around Rieti, and it is the capital of the province and a very large town so I have decided to take a bus there and stay for 2 nights so that I can spend tomorrow trying to get more detailed maps or guides. If I cannot, I will have to redraw my itinerary using the maps I have. I may even postpone the walk altogether until next year by which time I will have been able to order the necessary maps and guides. I am too adept at getting lost and there is absolutely no way I am heading into the mountains without detailed maps or instructions. As I said earlier, I am not a crow, but neither am I some kind of strong Amazonian superwoman! I had wanted this stage to be a slow, meditative pilgrimage, almost a retreat so if I cannot continue the walk I will spend the time in a Monastery, perhaps in or near Assisi. A friend has kindly agreed to come out and meet me in Assisi so I intend to visit there anyway (and there'll be another opportunity to wear the posh frock!).

So take care all. We will see what the next day brings.

Assisi Diary Post 12: 21/08/2008, Vetrella

2008-08-23T07:28:00.000-07:00

Assisi Post 12 - 21/08/2008, Vetralla 360 kms left

Well this is another milestone as although I still have over 300 kms to walk, I am now less than 100 kms from Rome.

The last posting seems to have been quite a while ago so this one might be a bit on the long side. I have been going through photos as well and seem to have a bumper crop!

To take up where I left off last time, I was leaving Sarzana to walk for a day by the coast. In fact I had a day and a half by the coast as I decided not to head inland after Massa Marina but to continue along the coast and head inland at Pietrasanta Marina. Arriving at the coast was quite a culture shock! After the beauty and art of Sarzana I was confronted by garish 'bucket and spade' type shops. The sea was not often visible as the beaches were mainly private, owned by the bar or restaurant establishment which hired out sun loungers and umbrellas. Occasionally there would be a public beach where a tantalising glimpse of the sea was visible.

But was it hot! And was it humid! Back came the memories of the Riviera coast walk of 2006. I arrived at my accommodation just before midday and promptly went to bed for an hour. Got up and went for a swim - had been carrying a swimsuit since England and I was not going to ignore an opportunity to use it. Luckily the hostel I was staying in was right at the sea front and beside a public beach. The seabed was disappointingly stony/rocky so I had to be very careful of my lovely feet! And of course I took a photo of them in the sea - C below

(and Marion, I made sure my nails would be up to scratch - pardon the pun!)

Back to my room and I was again exhausted so went to bed for another hour. This was only the 2nd or 3rd time I had had to rest in the afternoon in the whole of the walk. After resting I went off for food and came across a beautiful but modern Church. Alas I was not able to photo it. However en route back I did get my first sunset photo - below

The following day as I said I continued along the seafront until heading inland for Pietrasanta. There was a lovely walk up through a park and I was listening to some Breton music and my favourite dance tune came on - it's a Breton dance called ¨K'Host ar Kwaht¨ (that is absolutely not the correct spelling but it is approximately right). Anyway I just could not resist dancing. So I did. An 'ould fella' on a bike though it was highly amusing, so I brought a smile to someone's face that day! In Pietrasanta there was an amazing display of figures. They were not sculptures as such, I think they were made out of that resin type material. But they were giant heads sort of scattered in the main square. See example below. Some were on their side, some upside down.

OK I am not going to give a day by day account of events since the last Diary, nor am I going to keep referring back to the 2006 walk, but ....... there were a couple of other things about that day I wanted to share. The first was the incredibly generous welcome I was given in Valpromaro and the really helpful, pilgrim friendly girl in the Tourist Office in Pietrasanta. I had been intending stopping in Camiore and on reaching Pietr. called at the Tourist Office to ask her to phone the number for the pilgrim refuge. It turned out that this facility had been a one-off & there was no accommodation for pilgrims. She suggested I stay in the town which has a very nice refuge but I was committed to being in Lucca the following day and the distance was too great. So we chatted and in the end I decided I would try and get to the town beyond Camiore, Valpromaro, even though I was now faced with a pretty long day. I said I would be arriving late and she said they would wait for me. So off I went and arrived eventually about 17:00 after nearly 30 kms walk, to be greeted by the Mayor who gave me an account of the history of the area and the Church which had been a hospital for pilgrims very much like similar establishments on the routes of St James. He also opened the Church for me and gave me fresh lettuce and tomatoes from the parish garden! Anyway, I would recommend a stop in the village (I have not been bribed, honest) for those who want to stay in pilgrim accommodation. The village has a shop and a bar (very important) and the refuge, although a camp bed in a meeting room, does have a kitchen and there is the all important hot shower. It also has an amazingly friendly cat! It was a beautiful long-haired grey animal, picture below.

The other thing I wanted to mention about that particular day is a really lovely friendly bar situated at the top of a hard climb. I cannot remember the name of the village (and I have sent the maps back), but you come out of Pietrasanta and eventually start a really long climb and in fact walkers can short cut the end of it by going up a path that is invitingly wide initially but eventually narrows to about 18 inches so not suitable for bikes or I think horses. Anyway you get to the top and there is an open bar! It was there and open in 2006 and I remember writing in my diary that it was a very friendly place. This year was no exception. It is the first bar you come to, so to those who do the route, I thoroughly recommend it.

OK, now some general views of the Camino. First the hills around that area I was talking about above - see below!

Next a flower, or more accurately a shrub - a Fuchsia. This reminds me of Ireland where they grow wild. it was the first time and so far the only time I saw a Fuchsia. The flower always reminds me also of ballerinas in those lovely full skirts

And while we are on the subject of flowers, remember the huge plantain I found a couple of posts ago? Well I also found an absolutely enormous flower!

Several more days walking took me into Tuscany, beautiful countryside, but oh those hills! Also to my consternation the heat was not abating, but increasing. As I walked into San Miniato Basso at 14:30 the temperature was reading 41 degrees! The following morning I was rewarded for my early start by a beautiful sunrise

Also now the blackberries were starting to be in season so I had some tasty desserts!

and as a completely unrelated item, I came across a new type of waymark.

OK I was whingeing earlier about the hills, but the up-side is the views

Last posting I said a friend had foolishly agreed to come out and walk with me. Well surprisingly enough he is still talking to me! In fact he is proving to be a very tolerant, amiable companion and we have had much fun chatting along the route and jointly preferring the level parts rather than the ascents! (I can't put in what we actually say about the constant ascents which seem to be much higher and longer than the corresponding descents!). He joined me as planned at Siena and the first day's walk although hot was not too bad as it was not a hugely long day. But the next day was a right baptism of fire! In all it was nearly 30 kms and the heat and the hills were ........ But we survived and enjoyed some lovely wine sitting on L-shaped marble sculptures just outside the Collegiate Church at San Quirico d'Orcia, on the beautiful balmy evening. A just reward for the effort we had put in.

The next day had another brutal climb and we reached our destination, Le Briccole with just an hour or so spare before the weather broke and a fabulous storm broke out. Then it was followed by a rainbow.

I haven't said much about other pilgrims although since Vertrelli I have been encountering them. I had meant to mention this in earlier postings but somehow never quite did. There was a Swiss couple at Vercelli that Vanda and I kept meeting but I have not seen them since just before Pavia. They crossed the Po the day after me, Danilo the boatman told me they were expected. Then I met a Belgian couple just before crossing the Cisa Pass but have not seen them since either. Then there was the German lady, Frederika who I met several days running but she went ahead of me after San Quirico. Then there was a lovely group of young Italians who caught up with us at Radicofani. There is a lovely pilgrim refuge there and you have a communal meal. During this meal, when they found out I had walked from London, Matteo (I hope I have the spelling right) said ¨Are you the author of 'walk2rome'¨?

Well I was just a bit surprised to be asked if I was the author of a website in English by an Italian! Apparently he had seen one of my entries in a refuge 'Pilgrim Comments Book' and had asked a friend to look it up. His friend was following my diary and Matteo said it was a really lovely site.

I have to say I was flattered! ¨I'm famous¨ I thought to myself! Seriously though I was very pleased that the diary had appealed to someone from Italy as I love the country.

We saw them for a few days but they have now gone ahead. But they were great fun and we shared a few meals with them. I took photos of our times together and for once I remembered to ask if I coul;d publish them on the web. They agreed so here are photos of Matteo, Giulia, Vitorio, Cecilia and Sara. We might meet some of them in Rome as they will be spending some days there so might still be there when we arrive. Amazingly enough too, Matteo and Cecilia know the music of an Asturian piper called Hevia. We spent an evening chatting music and found we had similar tastes.

I also had 2 further opportunities to use the swimsuit. The first was Bolsena Lake. I had stayed in Bolsena in 2006 but only explored a very small part of the town as the pilgrim refuge I had stayed in was up in the hills on the outskirts. I had not realised the town was actually on the lake side. However this time we stayed in a refuge just across from the Basilica of Santa Christina in the town. So we wandered down to the lake and found a public beach where I was able to have a swim - and photo the feet of course!

The next opportunity was en route to Viterbo where the Via Francigena goes right past some very old thermal baths. I almost certainly wrote about these in my 2006 Diary and there are photos of the baths in the 2006 Photo Gallery. Interestingly Joe thought there had been more water in the baths last time he walked and I felt there were definitely baths which had dried up which were not in 2006. This time there was only water in 2 of the bathing areas. Although the sun was now a little weaker than it had been (36 degrees at 14:30 instead of 41 degrees), it was still strong so I could not stay out in it for long. One of the pools was about 3 feet deep and it was lovely to just wallow! Naturally I had to photo the feet so see below, but I forgot to photo the baths themselves. But if you're interested I'm fairly sure there is a photo on the 2006 Gallery.

In terms of unusual scenery, the road out from Viterbo takes you through what nearly feels like a canyon or gorge, with tall sides of rock.

Also that area has exceptionally well preserved examples of very old Roman Roads constructed from basalt.

And two final photos - one of the many roadside shrines

and the other is another example of the vivid colours that the camera sometimes catches because of the strong sunlight.

By the next time I write, I will again be on my own and have started out on the final leg of my journey - Rome to Assisi. I hope the temperature drops a little more but not so far as to bring the rain!

Take care all

Assisi Diary Post 11: 03/08/2008, Sarzana

2008-08-04T09:46:00.000-07:00

Assisi Post 11 - 03/08/2008, Sarzana. 728 kms to go

Well this is another milestone or rather a couple of milestones.

I have just crossed another mountain range, the Apennines and I have arrived at Sarzana where in 2006 I joined the Via Francigena having walked from Santiago de Compostela. That day I was suffering mildly from an extremely late night and 5 pints of Guinness! In Sarzana I stayed in the Franciscan Convent, my first pilgrim accommodation since just before crossing into Italy. I remember feeling a sense of being at home there. At the time Sarzana was hopping as there was a huge antiques fair all over the old town. Also there was an outdoor 'live' painting session going on where several artists had huge canvases which they painted over several days. There were chairs set out for the public to sit and watch the proceedings I remember being amazed at the confidence in the weather - what if it had rained overnight? I could not imagine a similar event happening in England. OK enough of the reminisces, what about now?

Well I didn't have 5 pints of Guinness last night although I could have the night before in Pontremoli (but that's another story). However I am again staying in the Franciscan Convent and amazingly enough the antiques fair is here and the open air painting has started - see below

So how has the walking been I hear you ask!

For a start the heat that I had been expecting for weeks has now kicked in with a vengeance. In my 2006 diary, like the pain I was suffering with my feet, I played down the severity of the temperatures. Who wants to read a diary that is full of negative remarks like "I was in constant pain for xxx hours" or ¨I thought I would collapse with the heat¨? Anyway I had been dreading the onset of real heat as I know I cannot walk very far in it! Well it has finally arrived. For example, this morning at 10:40 the temperature was 33 degrees. If you have had a dry sauna (as opposed to a steam sauna), just imagine being in the sauna room with a 26lb backpack on, and walking. That will give you some idea of what it can be like if there is no shade and in 2006 often there was not! Mind you, in 2006 the heat had been really climbing since about mid-June and continued until about the start of the 2nd week of August. For over two weeks when I walked in Italy the temperature did not drop below 29 degrees, even at night, so sleep was difficult. Oh and during that period, add in high humidity. So enduring this heat only for the last 6 or so days has not been so bad. Also I was fortunate in that as I said earlier I have just crossed the Apennines and the temperature moderated as I got higher.

OK that's the hard luck story over and done with so how about the Camino?

For quite some time I had been walking through fairly flat countryside. The area prior to my last posting is a rice growing area so is quite wet. Where you have warm and wet you also have mosquitoes! Even beyond the rice area the mosquitoes continued to plague me. However I seem to have left them behind now. There have been fields of those round straw bales that somehow remind me of weetabix (and yes I know weetabix is not round but oval!) so I thought you might like to see a pic

The approach to the Apennines included a stage which I decided was too long, given the heat and the ascent requirements. It was only about 26 kms which I can do but it included a quite steep climb of around 800 metres. Now the walk up to St Bernard's Pass entailed an ascent of 1000 metres and granted I was pretty wiped out when I arrived, but I was able to do it. That day it was clear blue skies and sun but I suspect the temperature remained below 30 (surprisingly enough a thermometer is not among the items I carry). Here it was different. Somehow when the heat is turned up, the rucksack gains about 7lbs (or so it seems) and the effort to walk is so much more as your body is now working overtime to try and keep you cool. Anyway I decided I would camp wild - this being the first time this year in Italy. After a steep ascent through a wooded area I found a suitable place and pitched the tent - pic below. It was only about 5 kms from the next pilgrim refuge.

Yet again I was being looked after (thank you all for your prayers) as about 30 mins after getting the tent up, the clouds gathered and a storm broke out, thunder, lightening and of course rain! After the storm died down, I heard my first 'unknown animal' noise. I have not heard it before and it was a cross between a bark and someone saying 'bear' at the same time. Given that I had pitched in a field I felt that whatever it was would probably stay in the woods and not approach the tent. Later that night the thunder and lightening returned so it was a bit on the sleepless side. The following morning it was overcast and looked as though rain was imminent so despite still being tired I got up and packed and was on the road at 06:00.

In fact the clouds disappeared and the rain didn't appear. My decision to wild camp though was vindicated as it took me more than 2 hours to do the next 5 kms. I stopped in the village for coffee and met 2 Belgian pilgrims I had encountered the day before when I stopped for a break. They had stayed behind to eat at the Bar/Restaurant. At the time I wondered whether they realised how hot it would get, and how difficult the route was. Anyway when I met them again they said it had also taken them well over 2 hours to do that stretch and had not reached their accommodation until 19:00.

Given that I am on a pilgrimage to Assisi, (don't you love the way I change subject with no warning!) at long last I have received a stamp from a Church dedicated to St Francis.

This was in Fidenza where I stayed at accommodation provided by the Parish Church of St Francis run by Franciscan Friars.

Also I like to photo water features and the one I took in Fidenza came out reasonably so I thought I would include it for your edification!

And not to be outdone by man, I feel it appropriate to include this water feature done by nature (it was not taken at Fidenza though)

As I said earlier I have crossed the Apennines. This was at the Pass of Cisa a mere 1041 metres high. Although on the day I crossed I only had to ascend 200 metres, I had to go down over 800 metres to reach my destination, Pontremoli. My leg muscles are still complaining! Perched right at the top of the pass was a beautiful (and open) little Church

As I sat taking my well-earned rest at the Pass and supped my coffee, the souvenir shop opposite was just opening for business. Out came a bucket of brightly coloured windmills to attract the children and suddenly I had an 'I want one' moment. So I now have a very brightly adorned rucksack! Alas the power generated by the windmill is not enough to actually carry the rucksack.

Well that's about it for now. Tomorrow I head for the coast for just one day's walking by the Mediterranean Sea so expect a photo of feet in sea in the next posting. And my pilgrimage enters another new phase as a good friend of mine is coming to Siena to walk with me. I found a Guinness pub in Siena in 2006 so no doubt we will sup a drop or two!

Before I go I should include a photo or two of the route up to the Pass

Take care all

Assisi Diary Post 10: 24/07/2008, Piacenza

2008-07-25T23:52:00.000-07:00

Assisi Post 10 - 24/07/2008, Piacenza

915 kms to go

Have walked now nearly 1500 kms and broken the final 1000 kms barrier. I think this is going to be a long Post so are you sitting comfortably? Then I'll begin!

As I said at the end of the last post, I had had a txt from Vanda to say Fred was returning to England. She had said from the outset that she did not want to walk on her own so she joined me at the Grand St Bernard Pass for the descent into Italy.

I was quite tired from the ascent and had asked if I could stay an extra night at the Hospice. This I was allowed to do, so on 11th July I crossed the border into Italy.

This had none of the trepidations of crossing into Switzerland as I had walked in Italy before. Alas the weather had broken a bit so there were clouds to restrict the view.

I was delighted to find that in the first Italian village we reached, the Church was open. I went in and prayed for someone I knew who was making their first Communion on that day.

It did rain a bit but not too severely fortunately otherwise the descent would have been quite tricky. We reached Aosta without difficulty though at times my legs protested at the rate of descent! I noticed that many Churches were decorated on the exterior walls with religious scenes.

We intended to start out early from Aosta the next day but when the alarm went off it was raining cats and dogs! Vanda asked if we had a 'Plan B'! We stayed in bed a bit longer and then the sun magically came out and all was well. Off we went but after a short while, the clouds reappeared and the rain returned.

After about 2 hrs the rain stopped, the sun came out and walking was pleasant. Then just as we approached our destination, St Vincent, the skies opened again and it rained!

This was to be the pattern of the next few days, rain for a time in the morning, then sunny and pleasant, then a soaking just before reaching our destination! As we progressed down the Aosta valley, the mountains on either side became lower and lower.

At one point we had to cross a river. The guide had said there was a ford. It looked a bit deep. Vanda walked across to the halfway point where there was a raised bit in her shoes but I was convinced it was too deep so took off my boots and socks from the outset. She had to take hers off as well as the next bit was quite deep. Left to my own devices I would have illegally walked across the train bridge which was just a few metres away! One had to pick one's way carefully across the stony riverbed but at least it gave me an opportunity to photo my feet in an Italian river!

At Ivrea I had decided to have a rest day, not because I was very tired, though for 3 days or more after the descent from the Pass, my leg muscles ached, but because it was my birthday! Ironically the lovely man in charge of the hotel we stayed in noticed from my passport details it was my birthday the following day. When I came downstairs the following morning he gave me a big hug and said Happy Birthday. It was lovely!

Explored Ivrea. Discovered that the Cathedral (Santa Maria Assunta) houses relics of an Irish Bishop from Cork - Thaddeus Mc Carty, who was returning from a pilgrimage to Rome and died at Ivrea. In fact several people I met told me about him.

I am now beginning to think this posting is getting a bit 'bitty'! But bear with me!

Continued on our way and I got my first Italian Guinness in a most unexpected place, a little village en route to Santhia where we had decided to stop for rest/refreshment.

The following day we arrived at Vercelli and stayed in 'refugio' type accommodation beside a Church. it was very much like being on one of the St James routes, dormitory accomm and we met our first pilgrims there. There was Mass at the Church and afterwards in a side Chapel a beautiful Prayer session led by Don Alberto, the Priest in charge of the pilgrim accommodation.. I had been told about it by one of the ladies just after the Mass and was very grateful that she had taken the trouble to invite me.

Afterwards we had a great pilgrim meal so much like some of the refugios on the Spanish Camino. Picture is below!

The great pity about Vercelli though was that we did not get into the actual centre. We had arrived rather late in the afternoon and the refuge was about 30 mins walk from the centre and there had been no time to visit. The route out the following day by-passed it.

We went from one extreme to another when we took a hotel at the next stop, Robbio. This was because, to my delight, my sister and her husband were meeting me. They had been in England, then visited some friends in the South of France and were now en route by car back to Poland where they live. They had decided to take a detour to meet me in Italy. Knowing they would arrive late, I booked them into the hotel and wanted to be able to spend as much time with them as possible. In the end they did not arrive til 22:30. However they decided to stay an extra day as they were tired. So we walked on to the next town and Sheila and Jorge drove over and booked themselves into another hotel. We went into the pilgrim accommodation on the edge of town but I was able to spend lunchtime and the evening with them. It was a great treat!

On the descent from Aosta the route was very well signed and remained so for a couple of days. Generally the signing was the letters VF with a direction arrow, painted in yellow. Then the signs disappeared after St Vincent and did not reappear again until Vercelli. Now they were the familiar (to me) depiction of yellow pilgrim and white arrow - see below

Not only did the signs reappear, but we also got or own guide! Alas I cannot remember now exactly where it happened, but am fairly sure it was en route to Robbio. We were having picnic lunch when a pick-up truck stopped and out jumped a man who started asking us questions. Given that I do not speak Italian, I was misunderstanding him and thinking he wanted directions to Vercelli! In fact he was a member of the local Via F group and was responsible for the signage. He told us about a route that would keep us off the road, giving us directions and explaining that part of it was a little overgrown. Off we went and found the arrow OK and followed the route but then reached a point where the sign was confusing and there were 2 paths one could have chosen. We debated it and made our choice. As we walked off, who should appear but the same guy, on a bicycle this time, calling to us ¨No, that's the wrong way¨ (in Italian obviously!). He explained the rest of the route again and even offered to walk the rest of it with us. We declined as we did not want to cause him more inconvenience but were very grateful for his intervention. We continued without further mishap and arrived OK at Robbio.

Can't have a Posting without talking about Churches and their open/closed state! After the first Italian village where the Church was open, they tended to be closed which was a great shame, and I had not expected it. I seem to remember when I walked in 2006 I generally found Churches open. Of course that was in a different part of Italy. Anyway for several days they were closed, or looked closed (I did not stop and try each one) except in the larger towns. However they are more open than closed now, and so beautiful - see picture below of the Church of Santa Maria del Campo en route to Mortara.

Whereas many Churches in the Aosta valley had biblical scenes painted on the outside, I came across another architectural feature in this area (Pavia/Piacenza) which I have not seen before, pointed towers on the façade (no doubt there is a proper term for this, Yvonne please advise). The Church of St Francis in Pavia was a good example

As I said earlier, Vanda came up to the Pass to meet me and we started walking together. However for me the arrangement was not working even though she did her best to fit in with my fitness level, accommodation requirements (my budget did not run to staying in hotels and eating out) etc. So I told her as we walked out from Pavia that this would be our last walk together. She decided to remain in Pavia while considering what to do next as there were good transport links. I had suggested she walk on her own as she was more than capable of navigating with the maps we had, and indeed with her better eyesight often spotted way marks that I missed! So I am on my own again. Perhaps I am just too awkward to walk with - if anyone out there is thinking of joining me for a while, be warned!

After Pavia comes the memorable trip by boat across the Po from Comte St Andrea to Soparivo. The very kind Priest where I had stayed the night before had phoned the ferryman and told me he would wait from 12:00 to 12:30. I was duly there but no sign of boat. I waited til 12;30 but there was still no sign. So I went into the village to see if he was at the tavern (there was a boat moored at the pier and I had wondered if it had been his).

Walked into the cafe and promptly felt unsure of myself as it was a room with several people eating, but no bar and no-one obviously in charge. Went round the back where there was a group of young people picnicing round the tables. Looked into the restaurant again and this time could identify who was in charge. I started trying to explain what had happened but I think he thought I had only just turned up and had missed the boat. In the end I managed to explain the situation to someone who spoke a little French. He turned out to be a Priest, and the group was a Parish Group from Lodi on a bicycle outing. The ferry was phoned and I was told he would arrive at 14:00 and could wait there. Meanwhile the Priest went off on his bike to fetch my rucksack (despite my protestations that it was heavy)which I had left at the pier in case the boat turned up when I was at the cafe. I chatted to a couple of the ladies who were accompanying the group. They were great fun.

Finally Danilo arrived with his boat and I was taken across the Po in the footsteps (not quite right word!) of Segeric. It was strange because the journey thru France and Switzerland did not seem really to link with his. As I approached the Hospice at the Pass I did feel a link, but a weak one. Then in a Church in Pavia I saw a 10th c cross that he must have seen, and now crossing the Po was looking at the same riverbanks. I wondered how much if any they had changed.

I had hoped to reach Piacenza that day as I thought there was only another 8 kms to do but in fact it was more like 13. I had been considering stopping for a rest day at Piacenza. In fact I started thinking about having 2 rest days. even though I had had a day off quite recently in Ivrea. But I was beginning to feel the need for an extended rest. I remembered the advice given by a hospitalero in 2006 when he said when I had walked 1000 kms I should find somewhere peaceful and stop for a few days. I was a few days ahead of my own schedule and anyway was not now intending to stay as long in Rome as I originally thought. Piacenza was large enough to enable me to catch up on stuff (my boots were wearing very thin) so I decided to stay there if I could find suitable accommodation.

So here I am, for a blissful 3 nights, the longest I have stayed since May 22nd when I started out on this very varied pilgrimage. Hope this has not been too rambling a post - but one last thing, a picture of an Italian Rose!

Take care all

Assisi Diary Post 9: 09/07/2008, Pictures

2008-07-24T12:46:00.000-07:00

Assisi Post 9
Just photos of the pilgrimage from 01/07/2008, leaving Etalans to Grand St Bernard Pass - as promised!

Assisi Diary Post 8: 09/07/2008, Grand St Bernard Pass

2008-07-11T02:52:00.000-07:00

Assisi Post 8 - 09/07/2008, Grand St Bernard Pass.
1202 kms to go

The power of Prayer is not to be underestimated!

Well this has been a roller-coaster of a stage, both emotionally and in terms of terrain.

My last few days in France passed pleasantly enough. I camped at an actual campsite for a change! Had wonderful views of a gorge as I climbed from quite low down to an altitude of 800 metres in a matter of hours. The weather was on a change and when I arrived at Pontarlier (my last night in France) it was raining on and off. I collected maps and guide for Italy that were posted to me (Thanks Jill and Joe).

The following day I packed my rucksack and my heart sank! It was so much heavier now with the maps and guide. But there was nothing I could do about it. Today was another milestone - I was to cross the border into Switzerland. Despite the thousands of kilometres I have walked, and the challenges I have faced previously, it was still with some trepidation that I walked passed the Customs Post. My plan that day was to walk beyond Ste Croix, the 1st large town one encounters and find somewhere to camp wild. I had been warned already by Vanda that the hotels were very expensive and the Priest had not been able to help.

Sitting here in the sunshine at the Pass it is hard to remember quite how difficult that day was, but suffice to say I found myself in the Catholic Church (which was open, otherwise I would not have been inside!) with tears running down my cheeks. But God was listening to your prayers for me and he sent an Angel to feed and shelter me and more. Not only did she give me a bed for the night, but also found me accommodation for the next 2 nights, and showed me a lovely route for the following day. So thank you all for your prayers (I include in the word 'prayer' the good wishes and positive thoughts people are sending me), be assured they are not in vain! I felt truly protected and blessed.

The following day saw me walking down through a wooded gorge which was littered with (that is not the correct expression to use with what follows!) works of Art and beautiful, touching spiritual phrases and was a perfect follow on from the previous day.

Switzerland is very much better suited to the wandering traveller than the earlier parts of France in that most small towns have a shop and/or a bar/cafe or restaurant. Thus I was able to savour lovely cold beer, my just reward after several hours walking! And while we're on the subject, I have walked all the way (except for maybe 1/2 km) through Switzerland and not encountered a Guinness. I probably could have got one in Lausanne but I was staying in a pilgrim refuge (a lovely place, part of one of the Catholic Churches) and alas the key to the outer door did not work so I couldn't go out. Luckily I had shopped for food en route to the refuge. By the way I have started to use the expression 'Catholic Church' where appropriate as Switzerland, unlike France and Italy is not a Catholic country. They are Christian but the main religion is Evangelical Reform Church. In the best traditions of ecumenism though I have been given accommodation by the very kind Pastor of a Reform Church parish as well as in a Catholic parish. (Re-reading that last paragraph, I seem to have gone from alcohol to religion!)

Having mentioned Lausanne, I bet you are all wondering whether I took the boat or not (or perhaps you've forgotten). Yes I did. From Lausanne I took the ferry to Villeneuve. The weather had changed yet again. It had been pleasant walking weather, sunny, blue skies but not unbearable hot. Now it was cloudy and ominous. It made for some dramatic pictures as I crossed lake Leman. The Alps rose dramatically from its shores and they were shrouded in clouds which were nonetheless moving quite fast, so now a peak would be revealed, then hidden again. As I approached Villeneuve I wondered what pilgrims of old would have felt, seeing those mountains close up for the first time, and knowing they had to be crossed. In those days there would not have been the accurate weather forecasts or mountain rescue helicopters.

So I saved another day to be used as an emergency rest day if the need arose I then walked 20kms to St Maurice. It was nice flat walking but alas it rained relentlessly for the first 3 hours. Luckily it stopped by the time I had to stop to eat and I picniced under a road bridge alongside the Rhone river. And what did I have to drink with my picnic? Cotes de Rhone of course!

All this was leading to my next major challenge - getting to the Grand St Bernard Pass. It is 2400+ metres high (8000+ feet), and I am afraid of heights! Minor alarm bells rang when I told the Priest in Orsieres I was going to the Pass the following day and he remarked I must be a strong walker. I do not consider myself to be so. Anyway there was no point in letting it dwell on my mind. Vanda had already txt'd me to say there were no precipitous drops, just some steep sections. In fact the walk from Martigny to Orsieres had presented me with a very unwelcome section where I was scrambling over rocks and tree roots.

I set off the following day with a walk of at the most 25kms if I stayed off the road. What I had not really taken into consideration (nor indeed even calculated) was that I had to ascend some 1400 metres. The walk started with a brutal, steep climb up a hill. I had to stop about every 100 metres or so to catch my breath and thought it will take me about 16 hrs at this rate! I think in fact I had already gone wrong and although ended up in the same place as one of the guide's waypoints, I had travelled a different route. Alas about 15 minutes later I took a wrong turn and spent about 1.5hrs rising in altitude about 200 metres up the wrong mountain! There was nothing for it but descend (by the road, not footpath) and then regain the 200 metres, but up the right mountain this time. The weather was beautiful though. My feet were great (sorry I know I keep going on about it but I still cannot believe it, I managed to walk 4 hrs without stopping.). I stopped to picnic by a stream and a fish came by to shelter behind a rock. Then later I saw a fox but alas he saw or smelled me before I could get the camera out.

However by the time I arrived at Bourg St Pierre, the halfway point in terms of distance and altitude I was pretty tired. I considered stopping there for the night. But I told myself I could get to the Pass so after a beer and sandwich off I went again. The scenery was of course magnificent. There were some steep bits but were followed by level bits so one could recover. I had been considering taking the road after St Pierre but decided on the walkers route. The sign at St Pierre indicated the Pass was 4 hrs away and it was now only 13:30. I needed to arrive by 19:00 as that was the time of the meal at the Hospice where I had reserved a dorm bed.

On and on I went. Up and up. I was in good spirits, there were no dramatic sheer drops! But the ascent was starting to take its toll. It was becoming harder and harder. I found myself in an area (can't quite describe it as a field) where there was a herd of cows. Again they seemed to find me fascinating and one started down the path towards me. It came right up to me, am not sure what it was expecting. However in order not to frighten it, and to get past it I had to leave the path which I them promptly lost! I continued in the direction parallel to the road and eventually spied a signpost in the distance and made for it. By now I was really flagging. Managed to find an escape route out onto the road and followed it for a km or so. Then took the walkers route to cut of a few bends. I could see the road winding up and up ahead so took the walkers route again hoping it would cut off more bends despite being steep. Normally I don't mind steep stuff - since doing the Camino del Norte I have developed quite good muscles for that sort of terrain.

It went on and on. I could not see any sign of habitation, nor did I have any idea how much further I had to go. I could see a cross high up on a rock. I hoped I did not have to go that high. The path levelled out and then would climb. I crossed streams presumably caused by melting snow. On and on and still no sign of anything. Then I came to a signpost but it was not much help as it gave no distances. I continued, then came across a sign. ' Hospice', it said. I must be close now. It was 18:15. I had been on the road since just after 08:00. I decided to ring to say I was on my way but not sure how far away I was. I had a sort of idea to ask them to keep me some cold food as I was convinced I still had quite a way to go. I described where I was, having the sign for the hospice as a guide, and they said ¨Oh you are only 20 minutes away.¨ Mind you I would have preferred if it was 5! I explained I was tired and walking slowly. They said it was no problem.

I continued. By now all I could feel was the incredible weight of the rucksack. I considered ringing again to say I would miss the meal as I felt I really had to stop and rest for about an hour. Again I think it must have been your prayers that kept me going. Something dragged me along! I just kept putting one foot in front of the other, stopping every 50 metres or so to lean on my staff and catch my breath. Eventually I rounded a corner and saw a building. It was higher than I was by more than I would have liked, but at least it was there.

As I proceeded, the path turned into something that looked like a very old road which I suspect it was. I wondered if this was what had been used by pilgrims in ages gone. At long last I saw the road again and the final track up, a steep path with scree on it. I arrived at the road right beside the sign that told me I was at the Col de St Bernard, 2469 metres. I had to stop and photo it. It was now just after 19:00. The 20 min walk had actually taken me 45 mins. Passing the cafe I saw a building with a door with a cross on it. Was this the Hospice? Breathless and with tears of relief I went towards it. Two men were just going up the steps to it and I asked was this the Hospice. ¨Yes¨ was the answer. I explained I was staying there and they accompanied me in and said I must hurry as the meal was starting. At this stage I think my body went into very mild shock. They were trying to help me off with my rucksack but I didn't seem to be able to remember which bits to undo! Perhaps it was because they were telling me to hurry - I don't know. Anyway we got the rucksack off and they were showing me where to go. I asked where the Church was (I am in an Augustian Friary so I have not used the word Catholic!). I felt compelled to just go for a minute to give thanks for my arrival. Then, still breathless & a bit tearful I was escorted to the dining room. One of the guys gave me a bowl of what I thought was soup, and a jug of the same, saying it was for me. I drank. It was warm, weak very sweet tea. A place had been laid for me which co-incidentally was opposite a very friendly Swiss man who could speak very good English. He was there with his daughter and another young guy for a week to do some walking in the Alps. We had a convivial meal in English and French. The two who had helped me on my arrival came back to check I was OK.

Afterwards I was sent yet another Angel to take care of me. She also offered to wash my clothes! And so ended the Swiss part of my pilgrimage. It started with a challenge for which I was sent an Angel and it ended with a challenge, for which I was sent three Angels.

Again thank you all for your prayers. You will have noticed there are no pictures with this posting. The next posting will be just pictures.

And I nearly forgot - the day I walked into Switzerland, I had a text from Vanda asking if I would like company. I replied in the affirmative. A few days later it emerged that Fred had decided to stop walking and return to England. Vanda wanted to continue so we will meet soon and walk together. So I am about to enter another phase of this pilgrimage.

Assisi Diary Post 7: 30/06/2008, Etalans

2008-07-02T08:16:00.000-07:00

Assisi Post 7 - 30/06/2008, Etalans. 1466 kms to go

Am now just 4 days away from the Swiss border and apparently horrendously expensive living costs. Am almost tempted to change route to stay in France and bypass Switzerland and go direct to Italy. However that would play havoc with my schedule and on closer inspection I have noticed there is supposedly pilgrim accommodation with 'the parish'. Whether that proves to be the case remains to be seen. Another alternative for reducing costs in Switzerland is to do something pilgrims of old did, and that is to take a boat across the lake Léman to Villeneuve. This was suggested to me by Alison R and I am considering it. When I walked down the west side of France in 2003, I took a ferry across the Bay of Arcachon rather than walk all the way round it, adding at least a week if not more on to my journey. That did not seem like cheating to me! No doubt my next posting will contain the result of my deliberations!

It can be difficult not to make this sort of writing into a 'weekly report'. I have a horror of repeating myself or becoming boring. Anyway ........

Accommodation: Have managed to continue to find cheap pilgrim accommodation but have also had to camp wild a number of times. This has been for 2 reasons, one to save money and the other to even out the stages. As an aside, re camping sauvage, it had crossed my mind to wonder if this region of France had any snakes. Interestingly the day after the thought crossed my mind, I was given a slightly gruesome answer - a dead snake on the road. Don't know what it is though but here is a pic.

Despite the fact that I am still absolutely amazed that I can walk for 3 or more hours without it becoming excruciatingly painful, I still do not wish to provoke my feet by tackling a 30+ day. So far though I have managed several quite long (27+) days one after the other.

However by camping wild I have been able to afford 'normal' B&B or hotel accommodation on one or two occasions when it has been necessary. (I don't like to camp wild 2 nights in a row mainly because of problems with recharging my phone which as I said in the last posting doubles as a camera.)

Normally I would not 'plug' my accommodation but the one I found at Seveux merits an exception. First of all it is right on the Via Francigena and has a waymark right outside the door!

Next it is run by an exceptionally welcoming couple who really understand what it is like to be a hot, sweaty, tired pilgrim. And to top that, fluent English is spoken! Ted is English and his wife Charlotte speaks English, German, French, Italian and even some Greek! They really made me feel at home - I even got to watch a video, a real treat! Next morning breakfast was superb. None of your 'coffee, croissant & jam', it was boiled egg, ham, different yummy types of bread and great coffee! If any of you are considering doing the Via F, my advice would be do not stay in Dampierre, walk the extra few kms and stay with Charlotte and Ted in Seveux. The town has a shop if you want to self cater, it also has a bar/restaurant, it also has a restaurant that burnt down but is being rebuilt, and apparently there is a Mexican restaurant somewhere that will pick you up from Seveux and drop you back after your meal. Oh, nearly forgot, it has a hairdresser as well! Also it means there are less kms for the next day which is quite long. Their contact details are Le Tilleul, 7 Rue du Paquis, 70130 Seveux
(I promise I am not being paid to advertise them)

Visual stuff: all sorts of different things. The walking has varied in terms of surroundings. One day spent about 10 kms in a forest and when I stopped to rest, a butterfly for some reason, found my Irish Flag irresistible. It landed on it and stayed for ages. In fact I had to gently shush it off to put my rucksack on. Unfortunately I could not get a pic of it with its wings open. They were brown with an eye on each wing. Anyway there is a pic below

This area also seems to have a strong tradition of wash houses. Each village I pass through has one, now unused but usually decorated with flower baskets. This one also had a handy mangle outside!

The other interesting thing I discovered is that in this area the Churches (which by the way are open more often than not) have wood burning stoves. I have not seen this before

One of the Churches I visited (the Church of St Martin in Arc-en-Barrois) had a grotto within the Church with beautiful statues. The picture does not do it justice - the statue in the foreground was so beautiful though sorrowful. There were frozen tears running down her face. It was very moving.

Some parts of the Church date from end 12th c.

As the days passed the terrain became more mountainy and my approach to Besançon yielded some great views.

Also on that day I walked in Misery! (which reminds of my 2003 walk through France where in Brittany I encountered a place called Purgatory!)

I was 'off piste' again and had taken a very straight-looking road for a few kms. It was a mistake as it had very heavy traffic and no verge. But on the other hand I got the chance to walk in misery and get great views into the bargain!

Weather: It is warming up with a vengeance. I now get up at 05:30 and am on the road by 06:30 to race the sun! The day after Chateauvillian it was really muggy and humid. By 09:30 even though I was in a forest I was dripping with sweat. I had expected the distance that day to be about 18 kms - I was not following the guidebook but info given to me by the very kind lady at the Tourist Office the day before. Anyway by the time I had done 20kms I was dead beat. I reached a village and stopped for the 3rd time. All I wanted to do was go to sleep. The only thing that persuaded me out of that idea was that my destination was only 3kms away. But what a lovely welcome. I was staying again with a community of Nuns and the Sister who was in charge of guests I suppose could see how tired I was and she make me coffee and served it with a lovely cake! The day reminded me of the worst part of my 2006 pilgrimage, up the Riviera coast which was so hot and humid.

Fortunately the humidity was only to last for that day, but the temperature was rising. Because of this, there were clear blue skies and vivid colours. I took the pic below at 08:27!

Then just to remind me what the elements could do, I encountered a storm. Though fortunately I was not 'on Camino' at the time. I had arrived at Langes much later and hotter and sweatier than I wanted. I had hoped to get a couple of 'chores' done there. Anyway I was planning to camp wild the following day as the distance was too far for me. I woke at 05:30 and there was the mother and father of a storm going on. Thunder, lightening, heavy rain, the works. Well I just could not motivate myself to get dressed and get out onto the road. Stayed in bed! Got up and booked in for another night and fortunately there was room OK. I was in an Auberge de Jeunesse and unlike many it did not close during the day so I could come and go as I pleased. I was able to do the chores I had hoped. Next day was OK so off I went. The pics below show the same view at the same time on the 2 days.

Miscellaneous: I know I have shown pics of roses before but the smell of this one was magnificent. Really sweet and powerful. Could not resist including it.

And you know I was talking about plantains last time, well someone looked it up (thanks Sil) and it is an astringent herb with the following properties: diuretic, expectorant, anti-mucus, mild anti-inflammatory & anti-bacterial. (though I wont be sticking it up my nose Sil!). Amazingly enough I came across a giant specimen and had to include it too - see below

And finally

THE HILLS ARE ALIVE, WITH THE SOUND OF MUSIC!

In this region the cows have bells round their necks (and yes I have recorded them) and you keep hearing this lovely tinkling sound of all different notes. Took a pic of a gang of cattle that decided I needed to be investigated and came from the far end of their field to do so but alas it is a little blurred but you get the general idea.

So take care all, keep sending me your positive thoughts, they are what is getting me to my destination.

Assisi Diary Post 6: 21/06/2008, Chateauvillian

2008-06-21T11:41:00.000-07:00

Assisi Post 6 - 21/06/2008, Chateauvillian, 1650 kms to go.

Well this has been quite a different week in all sorts of ways. For a start I have had the novel experience of walking without pain - except for the odd twinge and what a difference that has made! In my previous pilgrimages, generally I could walk for about 2 - 2.5 hrs. before the pain in the balls of my feet got so bad I had to stop. Thereafter I could keep going for about 1 - 1.5 hrs before needing to stop again. This happened every day and meant I had to take frequent stops thus making the day even longer. But this time I have not had such severe pain, and for the last 8 - 10 days have hardly had pain at all, a few twinges now and then. This means I can keep going much longer and need fewer rests. Still walk at the same slowish speed though!

I put this down to a number of things. Firstly the fact that I did manage to lose weight before starting the walk (many thanks to Paul B for his advice and encouragement and to Carl for being a sort of 'diet partner'). The next thing was the judicious application of anti-inflammatory cream (ibuprofen) and the wonder plant, plantain. This (the plantain) was a tip given to me last year on the Tro Breiz (again thanks are due to Marie-Therese) as an effective remedy for blisters. I don't know whether it acts as a painkiller or anti-inflammatory or what but the difference it makes is incredible. It's a weed that grows in shaded places - see below for a picture.

You just pick a leaf large enough to cover the blister or in my case the ball of the foot, and place it over the spot. I just kept it it place with my sock.

So I could not help but concur with the sentiments expressed on the way marker below!

After the 2 days spent on the National Route N44 to reach Reims, the next few days were an absolute joy. Initially in woods and along gravel tracks between rows and rows of champagne vines,

then along a dead straight Roman road,

and in case I should get bored with long and straight, the walk to Clairvaux was fairly hilly (though absolutely nothing compared to the Camino del Norte!)

One of the days I took it into my head to try and walk all night. ¨Why?¨ you might ask! Well before I started this walk I had been reading 'The path to Rome' by Hilair Belloc, in which he occasionally walks all night. It struck me as a fun, adventurous thing to do. So one day I had a go. Alas I was not successful. By about 23:00 I was getting quite tired and the guide instructions let me down again (though to be fair it was now dark) and the only way I could continue would be by an unlit road and I could hear quite a lot of traffic. Reluctantly I abandoned the idea and started looking for a place to camp. This is not so easy in the dark, and the ground was pretty damp as it had been raining the previous day and grass etc. had not yet dried out. Wandering around in the long wet grass my trousers were now wet up to above my knees and I was beginning to feel rather uncomfortable, and was getting cold. Then I spied a greenhouse - the large tunnel shaped things covered with plastic. I approached, half expecting to trip an alarm and have half the local gendarmes turn up any minute. As I got closer I realised the door was open. I went in. It was perfect. There were no plants in there, in fact it was being used by a local Boules Club. It was warm and dry and very comfortable. By midnight I was settled for the night - see picture below!

Another more pleasant aspect to this week has been that there have been more Churches open than of late. Admittedly I have been passing through larger towns. A selection of them is below (and I can hear Graham H say ¨Not another Church!¨)

1 Notre Dame de Vaux at Chalons-en-Champagne

This Church was started in early 12th c and replaced a previous Church which collapsed. It is a UNESCO World heritage site. There are stained glass windows from the early 16th c including a depiction of Santiago Matamoros at the battle of Clavijo.

2 Church of St Peter & St Paul at Brienne-le-Château.

The oldest part of this Church dates from the 12th c. It has seen much turbulence over the years - the French Revolution, Napoleonic Wars and of course the wars of the 20th c. In fact the Church completely collapsed. It was rebuilt and reopened in 1965.

3. St Peter's at Bar-sur-Aube

This dates from the 2nd half of the 12th c and was once a small Benedictine monastery. The wooden gallery is an unusual feature. I was told by the Sisters with whom I stayed at Clairvaux that because Bar was on the Via Francigena, Italian cloth traders passed through en route to England, and used the gallery to protect their wares on market days.

On the subject of Bar-sur-Aube I found it a lovely little town with lots of attractive wood timbered houses and a very grand Hotel de Ville. It is worth more than one visit. see pictures below

Accommodation has taken on a distinct ' pilgrim' feel as well. In fact I have not stayed in a hotel or chambre d'hote since last Sunday. I have been very fortunate and stayed with a family, in a lovely municipal gite - with hotplate so was able to cook a hot meal, in a Presbytery where the Priest gave me food when I arrived, and shared his breakfast with me the next morning, and with two lovely, kind, generous Religious (Sisters) who shared their food with me also. Tomorrow I stay at a Convent. Having said I was able to cook a hot meal, that same day I could not resist a big sticky bun from the boulangerie when I was getting my baguette!

The Irish Connection - just a by the way bit of interest, I discovered that there had been an Irish Capuchin Convent at Bar-sur-Aube, then found out the following day that the Irish Saint, St Malachy is buried near St Bernard at Clairvaux Abbey. In addition the Sisters with whom I stayed gave me a short piece of off-road route for the journey between Clairvaux and a small village, and this took me past the Fountain of St Malachy.

And one final thing. In case you think I have had an absolutely idyllic week, you are partially right, but to keep my feet on the ground, fate had a couple of things up her sleeve!

The first is demonstrated by the picture of the flower below

There I was, striding along making great progress. Had decided to camp wild that evening (again) and had covered a good 26/27 kms - a pretty reasonable distance for me - and I was now approaching the area of trees that I thought I would find a suitable spot. I was looking forward to stopping and getting my boots off. I saw a lovely group of wild flowers and stopped to photo it. Opening my bag I looked in - no phone. My heart nearly stopped. My phone is central to my journey, my lifeline, my camera, my sound recorder (and yes I have recorded the sounds of birds singing as I picniced), my emailer, my diary. I knew where it was, or rather where I had left it. I had stopped at a little village Church with a cemetery and refilled my water container. As it happened this Church was open, someone had been cleaning it. Anyway I rested there for a bit and had used the phone to check for an email response from a Tourist Office and foolishly had put the phone down, but not beside my bag. I had walked off and left it there.

Well I was almost in despair. The village was more than 2 kms back, which meant by the time I got back there, it would be nearly an hour since I had left my phone there. Surely it would not still be there (and don't call me Shirley - old joke from the film Airplane!). I started to retrace my steps telling myself it could be worse. I might have got to the woods, pitched the tent and THEN discovered the lack of phone. I decided this was an emergency and I was not too proud to hitch-hike back, anything to get back quickly before someone else found the phone. I asked God to send me a car. Obligingly he sent me 3. None of them stopped despite my imploring gestures. ¨I must be more precise in my prayers next time¨ I thought to myself.

In between cars I continued marching back, all the time saying the mantra ¨Please let it be there, please let it be there¨. I suppose you are now thinking ¨What a fuss over a phone¨. In many ways I agree. It is foolish to put so much value into an inanimate object.

Anyway eventually I saw the village and reached the Church. The phone was still there! The Church was still open so I re-entered and said a very heartfelt prayer of thanks!

Again I trudged down the road, reached the trees but there was not a suitable spot. I continued through the next village and still could not find somewhere. I was starting to get uneasy. It was not late, but I was getting close to a large town and knew it would be difficult to find somewhere there. In the end I found another group of trees but had to tramp my way through nettles and briars to find a grassy spot. I started to erect the tent and immediately I was surrounded not just by biting mosquito type things but also flies of all sorts of sizes. I have camped wild before on several occasions in France and Italy but never encountered flies. Also the number of biting insects was enormous! I had to get the tent up as quick as I could, then chuck everything into it as well as myself to escape the insects.

So it has not all been sweetness and light! Though mostly it has. And to all those people who have been in contact with me through email/txt etc., thank you. I might be physically alone, but your messages mean I am not actually alone.

And what of Fred and Vanda? Vanda and I keep in touch every few days. They are now 3 days ahead of me.

Take care all

Assisi Diary Post 5: 13/06/2008, Reims

2008-06-13T12:03:00.000-07:00

Assisi Post 5 - 13/06/2008, Reims, 1838 kms left

Have broken the 2000 km barrier!

Well it has been an eventful few days! Weather has been very mixed. But I forgot to say that at Amettes as well as a very welcoming B&B, we received our first Via Francigena stamp - see below!

I have at long last tasted my first French Guinness (and Joe, I didn't have 5 pints this time!).

This was at Arras, a lovely town with a good variety of eating places including a Polish restaurant and a Japanese restaurant. This is somewhere I would recommend a rest day particularly as the Youth Hostel is very central unlike many which tend to be on the outskirts of towns, probably due to property prices. The downside though of the YHA was that it did not open til 17:00.

Most of the route into Arras was on the main road and just the last stretch off-road. I decided to stick to the main highway so imagine the look of surprise on Fred & Vanda's faces when they entered the main square to find me already installed supping a Guinness in the afternoon sun! (Tortoise & hare springs to mind.)

As I mentioned earlier the weather has been pretty variable and a few days later the walk into Peronne was the most grotty, miserable, wet day I have ever walked. In all the kms I have clocked up, I have never experienced a day like it. It was raining when we set off and it did not stop, (and I mean it did not stop!) all day long. It could have been worse - it could have been windy as well, the rain could have been heavier. It was just a persistent, insistent rain. To make matters worse, the distance we expected to walk was only about 18.5 kms so I had set off a little later. However the actual distance by the direct main road was at least 21 kms so the off-road route would have been longer. Mistakes in the directions had caused me to go wrong and I ended up walking in the wrong direction back towards the previous night'.s stay. In the end I stuck to the main road again, plodding along trying to avoid as best I could the spray from the lorries. Fortunately at about the halfway stage I found an open bar/tabac and was able to get some warming coffee and a sandwich. My waterproof gear was OK. I now have the raincoat popular with those who walk the Camino in Spain which has a bump on the back for the rucksack. I look like Quasimodo! One does get a bit wet inside on a day like that where there is no let-up in the rain, but this is I think from sweat as I wore it the following day which was overcast but not actually wet, and still the sleeves were damp inside. The mac kept my rucksack drier than a normal 'sack cover. Vanda discovered the following morning that her rucksack had not been fully protected by the rucksack cover and her tent was damp. She carries all her other stuff in those waterproof bags you can buy in camp shops so didn't realise about the tent.

Anyway the people at the hotel we were staying at were very friendly and warm. I was starting to get a little weary as I had now been walking quite a time without a rest day and the rain had not helped. There was an Irish pub in Peronne and although it did eventually stop raining later in the evening, I didn't feel like going out again. So I missed a chance for a second drop of the black stuff!

The following day saw no rain though it was overcast all day. Fortunately it was quite a short walk but the next few stages were going to be problematic. Because of availability of accommodation, distances were 36.5 kms, 36.5 kms & 29 kms. The three of us talked about it and I said I would not be capable of walking those distances day after day especially as I was starting to feel in need of a break. I looked at the map and worked out a different route that would get us to Laon in 3 days instead of 2, but we did not have any information as to the availability of accommodation on the middle day. I suggested if the worst came to the worst we camp wild. The other two both felt able to cover the longer distances and in addition, Vanda had to reach Rome by a specific date as she was meeting people there. We could not be sure that a problem like this would not arise again as we were not familiar enough with the guide and route. Sadly the following morning we went our separate ways. I took the route via St Quentin, they the 2 day route via Tergnier. The route I chose worked out OK and there was accommodation available but I decided to have a rest day at Laon.

Apart from the lack of company the most obvious drawback is the sharp increase in my accommodation costs so I have to economise where I can. To this end I had a very simple meal at St Quentin consisting of cold corned beef and tinned mixed veg. Naturally the key to open the corned beef broke and I had to hack the tin open with my penknife - see below

Cold corned beef hash!

Never mind though, the Cotes de Rhone made up for it all!

The walking has been on roads through cultivated farmland. Many of the fields have what looks to my untrained eye lettuce growing, other crops include potatoes and corn. The past few days have mainly been flat apart from the ascent into the old quarters of Laon. I had intended to arrive at the Cathedral there on foot as pilgrims of old, however I'm afraid the spirit was willing but the flesh was weak, and I took the cable car thingy called the 'Poma'.

The beautiful Cathedral of Laon

And before I forget, 2 photos taken as I left St Quentin - interesting sculptures atop the disused casino and a painted metal shutter. Its such an attractive way to camouflage a dull boring shutter. I have seen many like this in Camden town and one or two in Barcelona.

Bear with me - I am stil experimenting with the capabilities of my phone and its ability to put captions on photos!

This one was slightly better!

I reached Reims from Laon by way of the N44 - not for the faint-hearted - and amazingly have covered the distance from Laon to Reims in 2 days instead of the guide's 3 days. (Chris L you would have been proud of me!). The day out of Laon it rained all morning and there were a lot more lorries (& spray) on the road than I would have wished! A very kind chap even stopped and offered me a lift. He wondered if I was en route to Santiago. He had walked there from Holland & it had taken over 4 months. I explained where I was off to and (reluctantly) declined his gracious offer. Still, not too much later the rain stopped & I dried out enough not to be dripping all over the friterie I encountered at about the halfway point where I was able to get some very good chips. Arriving at Corbeny I found the familiar (from my 2006 journey) AIVF logo displayed in the window of the hotel. They gave a pilgrim discount for which I was very grateful. It was a lovely hotel with a very welcoming chap in the attached bar/tabac.

I knew I had a longish walk the following day so I was on the road by 07:00. It was a bit overcast and chilly but not raining. In fact the day went well, sun came out once or twice but in the main it was good cool walking weather.

As I said, I am now in Reims and yet again as he did in my 2006 pilgrimage, St James has come to my rescue re accommodation. I was a little concerned as there is a festival in reims this weekend and I felt the town might be full. The first thing that happened was that I was stopped as I walked into the town and offered accommodation if I was unsuccessful at the Tourist Office! Happily I did not need to take her up on the offer as St James helped me yet again!

Detail from one of the doors of Reims Cathedral.

So if I had not had a rest day in Laon I would have caught up with Fred and Vanda but at the time I had not been planning to walk 50 kms along a rather busy road and partly in the rain. Who knows perhaps I will catch up or even overtake them (tortoise & hare comes to mind again!) as I am not that phased by walking on main roads when it suits though I do prefer a quieter life!

Take care all

Assisi Diary Post 4: 12/06/2008, Just flowers

2008-06-12T00:05:00.000-07:00

Assisi Post 4 - 12/06/2008, Just flowers!

Mostly roses, but some others as well - enjoy

Assisi Diary Post 3: 02/06/2008, Amettes

2008-06-07T08:15:00.000-07:00

Assisi Post 3 - 02/06/2008, Amettes, 2094 kms left

As I had said in the previous post Fred and I met up with Vanda at Canterbury on 26th so on 27th May the three intrepid explorers set off to walk to Rome (and Assisi).

Weather was pleasant and armed with a short cut from our CPR friend Joe, we hoped to reach Calais on the same day. I had arranged to receive a Blessing at Canterbury Cathedral which again was a very special event, and after that we set off. We were accompanied initially by Vanda's husband Paul but all too soon he had to turn back and we waved him goodbye.

We arrived on the outskirts of Dover in good spirits but did not realise how far we still had to travel. Then it started raining! In the end we did not reach the port until about 18:30. We were in time for the last ferry but we would not have reached Calais until around 22:00. Dripping all over the terminal we reluctantly decided that it was too late to do the crossing today and we needed to find somewhere to stay in Dover. In the end we found a pretty cheap hotel not far from the port and with a very convenient Indian take-away. We dined sumptuously on that and Cotes de Rhone!

It was with great excitement that we boarded the ferry and at long last we were off to France! We would not arrive until after midday so had planned a short walk that day and duly arrived in Wissant around 17:00.

Our view of Calais as we disembark

We had phoned ahead and booked the hotel Bellevue. They provided us with a 'family suite' consisting of bathroom, a double-bedded room and another room with 2 single beds. The rooms were very light and airy. The restaurant also was lovely and sunny and bright with windows on all sides. After an exceedingly good meal washed down with lovely cold Rose wine, we went for a stroll into the village and to the seafront.

It was sunset and the sky had wispy clouds coloured by the dying sun. The tide was out and had left little pools of water which now contained reflections of the pink fading sun. And there we could see across the water, the lights of England. Fred had already made reference to something he had read where the author gazed out over the Channel and could see England across the water. Now Fred was experiencing something similar and realised that he also was now in another country and the reality of that on which he had also embarked.

Sunset over the Channel

I suspect this was similar to that which I had experienced in 2003 when I left Plymouth on the 2nd stage of my pilgrimage to Santiago. I sat on the ferry taking me to Roscoff. I had never done anything like this before. Here I was, setting off into a foreign country, never really having walked anywhere before. I felt as though I was jumping off a cliff with my eyes blindfolded, not knowing whether the drop was a few inches, in which case I would probably survive, or whether it was several hundred feet, in which case I might not!

Anyway, Fred and Vanda gazed at the sea, & I decided it would be folly not to have a paddle so off I went. It was somehow satisfying to feel the waves washing over my feet so I took a photo! I seem to be developing a penchant for taking photos of my feet! I have one of my foot on the shell in Obradoiro Square which marks the ' zero' point of the pilgrimage to Santiago, and another of my feet dangling in the Mediterranean sea when I walked down the Italian Riviera from Genoa to Menton recently.

Feet washed by the Channel

So how has it been walking?

We have now walked just over 258 kms. As I said the trip to Dover was not too bad until the latter part when it started to rain. The following day to Wissant was pleasant, sunny but not too hot. Although we stayed more or less together though it was becoming clear that Fred and Vanda both walked at a faster pace than I.

We spent our second night in a Chambre d'Hote at Guines. Again the accommodation was very comfortable and the proprietors even invited us to accompany them to the supermarket so we could get something for our evening meal. We also had had an excellent omelette lunch in the Bar opposite.

The following day we arrived at a charming Chambre d'Hote at Alembon with beautiful, original décor, done by Martine, the proprietress. See picture below.

Fabulous original decor at Guines

The next day was hot and I had coloured up well (though not actually sunburnt!) by the time we arrived at Wisques where we stayed with the very hospitable Benedictine Sisters and I was able to attend Mass the following day (Sunday). After staying at Enquinegatte we had our first seriously rainy day. It started in the morning and continued for some hours. It then stopped and we had just about dried off when it started again. At long last we found an open bar/tabac and I had a most welcome beer! Unfortunately though we were dripping somewhat. Arriving at Amettes we were just in time before our 'lady of the house' went out to work. Again the accommodation was very pretty and more importantly, we had plenty of heaters with which to warm up and dry our clothes.

I hope there are not too many more days like that in store!

Assisi Diary Post 2: 27/05/2008 Canterbury

2008-05-30T02:25:00.000-07:00

Assisi Post 2 - 27/05/2008, Canterbury 2224.25 kms left

Well. Have just covered 123 kms in 4 days! Of course my backpack was being transported for me but given we were doing around 30 kms each day, I do not consider it cheating!

Headed off on the Friday morning and met Fred as planned at St Martins. Here we joined the Pilgrimage organised by the Connection at St Martins (see below for a link to their website) and went down to the Crypt Cafe where free hot drinks were being served for the pilgrims. After a time we were joined by a very chatty lady from Cardiff, who ended up in our walking group and turned out to be great fun with some wonderful turns of phrase (or is it turn of phrases?). We also met up with Jim, another member of the Confraternity of Pilgrims to Rome, and his sister Ann.

The link to the site is

http://www.smitf-pilgrimage.org.uk/

Eventually the Pilgrimage was launched at about 11:00 from the steps of St Martins and after a short distance we stopped so that we could chose a walking group depending on our walking ability/fitness. We joined a medium speed group led by Chris.

It was a pretty hard slog. We were walking out of London which of course is pretty big! The combination of hard pavements and noisy, smelly traffic was not conducive to the peace and calm one might associate with a Pilgrimage. The situation was exacerbated by the (planned) late start which meant we needed to keep up a good pace if we were to arrive at our destination at a reasonable time.

Despite my two recent walks (6 days in Spain & 6 days in Italy), on both of which I was carrying a fully loaded rucksack, I found the going tough. Luckily the weather was pleasant and on each of the 3 stops we had, I was able to take of my boots and let the feet breath.

Ably led by Chris and with Charlie (CAR, keep right, I SAID KEEP RIGHT) bringing up the rear, we reached our final destination at about 19:00 where we were welcomed with hot drinks and a very good home-cooked meal. We were accommodated in a Church hall and in fact some of us were able to sleep in the Church itself.

After dinner we went down to the local pub for a beer (despite being warned it was not a very good pub). The warnings proved only too accurate. The pub had no decent beer and was so noisy that we had to sit outside. Unfortunately the evening had become somewhat cool so it was not that pleasant to sit outside. We just had one drink and retuned to our quarters. We were pretty tired anyway. I spoke later in the Pilgrimage to another pilgrim who said he had also visited the pub and it was the worst pub he had ever been in!

The following day we set off shortly after 9:00 with sunny skies and now out of London the route took us along beautiful rural countryside. We walked along paths through rolling hills and in lovely cool woods. Weather was blue skies and sun. Mostly pleasant, at times a bit hot. The sun factor 50 had to be applied!

Day 2 gave us England's fair and pleasant fields ( or whatever the quote is - sorry its not my specialist subject!)

There were several photo opportunities for myself and Fred at 'Pilgrim Way' street signs. Luckily Jim was there to record the event. At one point we found ourselves at Stansted. " Have we gone wrong?" we asked ourselves, but we had been following our leader. No, this was a different Stansted, not the one of airport fame.

A very welcome sight for footsore pilgrims

Time after time we were given hospitality of coffee and sandwiches and cakes from beautiful Churches en route and were greeted by friendly, welcoming Vicars. Most unexpectedly, at the last coffee stop of the day which was provided by the St Martins volunteers, there was the wonderful rainbow Peace Flag flying. it had the word 'Pace' (the Italian for Peace) on it. It reminded me of my previous pilgrimage to Rome where on the very 1st day on the Via Francigena pilgrim route in Italy, I saw the Peace Flag.

Our destination that night brought 3 bonuses. First was a wonderful hot shower, very welcome after 2 days of walking. The next was an opportunity to share prayer with the community at Aylesford Priory. The third was a visit to a great pub. It was quiet and peaceful with lovely comfortable seats and great beer. They had Summer Lightning on of which I had a sup or two!

The following day was Sunday and unfortunately the walk was to start at 8:00 which clashed with the Mass which also started at 8:00. The organisers very kindly offered to ferry me by car to join my walking group at the first coffee stop. But it meant I would not have done the full distance by foot. Nonetheless I resigned myself to the practicalities of the situation. I (and as it turned out several others) attended a lovely Mass and as I came out I was greeted by one of the organisers in walking gear saying " Right, if you want to, and you are very quick, we can catch up with the walkers."

I had to do a double take. "Do you mean we can walk to the coffee stop instead of taking the car?" I asked, not quite believing what I was hearing. "Yes" he said. "Have you any idea what that means to me?" I asked. What it meant was that (assuming I did reach Assisi), I would be able to say I had walked the whole way there, and not "Well I walked the whole way there except for the 8 kms when I went to Mass and ......."and then of course it gets complicated.

Anyway, the net result was that Vaughan led us to the next group, then Paula took us on to the next and then after walking with another group we caught up with our original group at the lunch stop. I spied our leader Chris. "What time are you leaving" I asked. "13:15" was the reply. "What time is it now?" I asked. "12:55" he said. 20 minutes rest. That's OK I thought to myself. So Jim and I joined our group OK. I am still grateful to Vaughan for volunteering to stay back and lead us and Paula for carrying on the baton. I send you both a big pilgrim hug!

It had been raining the previous night and that morning it continued. It was not too bad and after an hour or two the rain stopped and he sun came out and dried us up. It turned out to be a very pleasant walk again. We arrived at our destination and who should arrive but a good friend Yvonne. We had been in touch and she did say she would try and walk with me but I know that things can conspire against that sort of thing.

Anyway she made it and the organisers very kindly allowed her to be a guest walker the following day. We left the group and took off for a Chinese meal, rejoining Fred and Jim later in the pub (where else!) where we were entertained to music by Abba (juke box). It was a great night.

Yvonne insisted I join her in her hotel so we tried to get a taxi but no go! So we walked about 2 miles to the hotel, me grumbling and muttering under my breath the whole time as I had walked enough that day. Fortunately Yvonne with her long legs was well ahead of me and heard none of it! It was a very comfortable room and we got a taxi back the following morning and Yvonne joined the final walk into Canterbury.

Day 4 turned out to be a bit wetter than day 3 but we soldiered on bravely (!).

Pilgrims warmed by a fire specially lit for us

We were about 10 kms from Canterbury when I thought I saw someone I recognised but who had not been on the walk.

It was Marion who had said she might meet me in Canterbury but was not absolutely sure she would be able. It was great to see her and we arranged to meet later. When we did meet later, it transpired that she, Jim and Yvonne had all met in Rome within a week or so ago! It all seemed a bit bizarre. Each of them had just done a pilgrimage in Italy. Marion had come from the direction of Siena, Yvonne from Assisi and Jim from a south Pilgrimage. They did all recognised each other. It just seemed an amazing co-incidence that they should all meet again on my pilgrimage!

Journey's end (for some!) outside Canterbury Cathedral

Anyway we went to the gathering point prior to the procession to Canterbury Cathedral and who should turn up but Vanda! So our third member was now with us. After the ceremonies Marion offered to take us to the YHA where we were staying which we gratefully accepted as by now it was raining again.

So we booked in and that was the end of one part of the Pilgrimage and the start of the next!

I am very grateful to the organisers of the Pilgrimage for all the hard work and especially to all the volunteers who gave us refreshments along the way. It was a hard 4 days but great fun and the route was in some really lovely countryside. Thanks again.

Assisi Diary Post 1: 22/05/2008, London

2008-05-22T23:23:00.000-07:00

Start of my journey, Westminster cathedral

Assisi Diary Posting 1 - 22/05/2008, London
So this is my first posting to my new Diary and the last few days have been absolutely nuts! I think out of the last 48 hours I have slept about 7.

I was actually supposed to have started this walk from my house in Hertfordshire on Tuesday but completely underestimated the amount of time it would take to complete the various bits and pieces I had to do before leaving (I would never make a project manager would I Carl? and by the way let us wish Carl all the best as he gets married tomorrow 23rd May).

Anyway it soon became clear I would not be ready for Tuesday. So then I thought I could start the walk from Hertford town on Wednesday as that was only 15 kms and I had already booked my accommodation at the YHA. I was supposed to see my Parish Priest as he had agreed to bless my journey so I re-arranged this for the Wednesday. But no, I still had a pile of stuff to do at 20:00 on Wednesday night. Somehow it did not seem sensible to only walk one day in Herts so by 23:00 on Wednesday I had resigned myself to skipping out the pre-London stage and starting from London itself.

Would you believe though that even by 03:00 on Thursday morning I still had not finished my preparations? In fact here I am at 23:30 on Thursday evening and I still have not finished! One of the things I needed to do was update my website with info about this walk, and email people with details about where to find my diary. This I still have not done!

So back to the sceal (that's the Irish for story). Having decided not to walk at all prior to London I naturally thought I would have loads of time to finish everything. Not a bit of it! I did not leave the house today until after 16:00 and I had to be in Westminster before 18:00. By now I had decided that the most appropriate thing for me would be to start from Westminster Cathedral if I could not start from my home town. This I had arranged but needed to be at the Cathedral before 18:00 in order to have my Pilgrim passport stamped.
Anyway despite the problems uploading my revised website I managed to get there by the required time and received a stamp and a very very special send-off from the duty Chaplain. And now comes the 'Camino moment'. Sometimes things happen in real life that you cannot invent in a book because no-one would believe you. It seems to happen more frequently on a pilgrimage so they have become known by some as 'Camino moments'.

I had decided I wanted to light a candle in the Cathedral at the Chapel of St Patrick but annoyingly I had only 2p in change. initially I thought "It doesn't matter, but then I decided it did so I went in to a nearby cafe to get change. I had received my order and got the change I needed when suddenly I heard a voice saying "Hello Ann".

It was a member of the St Francis Ramblers who was delivering posters about a forthcoming Barn dance and was heading for the Cathedral. Mind you I forgot to ask her why she was in this cafe as she did not seem to buy anything. I was very pleased to see her and then to my delight she agreed to take a photo of me in front of the Cathedral, and insisted on taking them 'til she felt it was the right picture. We went in to the Cathedral, she to deliver the poster, me to light the candle. On our way in we met yet another member of the Rambler group. None of this would have happened if I had not gone off to find change!

from Cathedral to Abbey

the route takes me past a very famous London Landmark

End of day 1: St-Martins-in-the-Fields

So I then walked the rather short distance (perhaps 0.5 kms or 1 km) from Westminster Cathedral to St-Martin-in-the-Fields in Trafalgar Square as this is where I will start the onward journey to Canterbury tomorrow.